Direct Drive Hub Motors

Advantages:

• Quietest type of motor.
• Simple design with fewer components to fail.

Disadvantages:

• Heavier than other motor types.
• Fixed single gear, which increases power consumption when accelerating, climbing, or battling headwinds.

Geared Hub Motors

Advantages:

• Lighter and more compact than direct-drive motors.
• Less noticeable in the wheel’s appearance.

Disadvantages:

• Noisier than direct-drive motors.
• Smaller size can lead to overheating due to less surface area for heat dissipation.

At Caprouge, we prioritize finding the ideal balance between weight, power, and range—the "Goldilocks Zone" of e-bike performance. While hub motors have their place, we specialize in mid-drive motors for their superior versatility, efficiency, and ability to handle challenging terrains. We do not currently offer hub motor options, as our focus is on providing the best overall riding experience for our customers.

For street use, U.S. law caps motor power at 750 watts, which we’ve found to be ideal for most riders. While many e-bikes are designed for European standards with 250-watt motors, this lower power level can struggle on steep hills, against headwinds, or with heavy loads. A 750-watt motor provides that extra boost when you need it, whether for tackling challenging terrain or simply speeding up, without requiring you to use maximum power all the time.

Most riders use their e-bikes at lower power levels (around 250 watts or less) to conserve battery life and get more exercise. However, having additional power on tap is invaluable for those moments when you need it, so long as it doesn’t weigh down the bike unnecessarily. Our solutions ensure this balance between power, efficiency, and weight.

Our street-legal 750-watt motors weigh between 7 and 9 pounds, offering excellent power without unnecessary bulk. For those who need more power, we also offer the CYC X1 Stealth and X1 Pro motors, weighing 10 and 11 pounds respectively, as well as the BBSHD motor at just over 12 pounds.

For versatility, the BBSHD and Ultra motors can be configured for dual modes using the EggRider display. This display allows riders to switch between a 750-watt street-legal mode and a high-power off-road mode (1,000+ watts) with the press of a button, ensuring compliance while providing extra power when needed.

At Caprouge, we’re dedicated to helping you find the perfect motor that matches your riding needs while keeping your e-bike lightweight and efficient.

Basic Pedal Assist:
In a basic pedal assist system, the motor delivers a predetermined level of power whenever it detects you’re pedaling. The more you pedal, the more the motor assists, but it doesn’t consider how hard you’re pedaling. For example, if you choose level one assistance, the motor will provide about 100 watts of power, regardless of whether you’re pedaling lightly or giving it your all. The motor will increase power with each higher level of assist, up to the maximum available, which might be 750 watts (five times the effort of a person pedaling hard).

Torque Sensing:
With torque sensing, the motor takes into account how hard you’re pedaling and adjusts the assistance accordingly. If you’re pedaling harder, the motor provides more power, creating a more seamless and natural riding experience. It feels as though you’re generating more power, making the ride feel more intuitive and responsive.

While torque sensing offers a more dynamic and powerful riding experience, it’s not essential for every rider. If you’re willing to pedal hard on your own, basic pedal assist can still give you a great experience. However, for those who prefer a more refined, responsive ride, torque sensing is a game-changer.

Not all bikes are suited for torque sensing, and adding it may mean sacrificing some other capabilities, such as extra power or noise reduction. For instance, the Bafang BBSHD and BBS02 are powerful, robust, and silent motors that rely on pedal assist and throttle, but they don’t feature torque sensing. If you don’t need that level of power or ultra-quiet operation, the TongSheng TSDZ2 offers a lighter motor with torque sensing. Additionally, CYC Motors’ new line of motors all include torque sensing, along with more power than the TSDZ2. CYC engineers have perfected this feature, offering a refined and natural pedal assist experience that can even be fine-tuned through a smartphone app.

If this all sounds a bit confusing, don’t worry. Torque sensing provides a more tailored riding experience, but you’ll enjoy any of our conversion solutions. The most important factors are the type of bike you start with and how you plan to ride it. To help you make the best choice, fill out our conversion questionnaire, book an appointment, and let us guide you in selecting the ideal setup for your needs.

When selecting a battery for your eBike, consider these key factors:


1. Quality Brands: The cells inside your battery are crucial. Opt for well-known brands like Samsung, LG, or Panasonic to ensure safety and performance. Avoid cheap knockoffs, as one faulty cell can damage the entire battery.

2. Power and Capacity: Look at voltage (V), amp hours (Ah), and watt hours (Wh). Higher voltage provides more power and speed. Ensure the battery suits your riding needs with the right wattage and capacity for extended range.

3. Battery Size: Match the battery size with your typical riding distance. For long rides, choose a battery that supports your range. For shorter rides, a smaller battery may suffice, with an additional one for longer trips. Our most popular options include the 52V Super Shark (50 miles) and Jumbo Shark (70 miles).

When choosing a charger, there are a few key factors to consider. High-quality chargers typically come in metal cases and feature fan cooling to prevent overheating. They are available in various amperages, which determine how quickly your battery charges. However, charging too quickly with a high amperage can reduce the lifespan of your battery.

For those unfamiliar with battery technology, it’s best to purchase a charger from the same brand that supplied your battery. The charger’s amp rating should match or be lower than the standard charging rating of your battery pack—not the maximum charging rate. Consistently charging at the maximum rate can shorten battery life, which is why Tesla recommends avoiding frequent use of their superchargers. Superchargers are intended for long trips, while regular daily charges should be done with a slower charger at home.

At Caprouge, we offer two types of smart chargers: 2-amp and 4-amp models. The 4-amp charger charges twice as fast as the 2-amp version. For example, a 52V 700Wh battery will charge in about 3.5 hours with a 4-amp charger if fully depleted, while the same battery will take 7 hours with a 2-amp charger. All of our batteries, including the mini-cubes, are designed to handle a 4-amp charge without negatively affecting battery life.

We also offer the Caprouge Super Charger, which features a selectable amp range from 1 to 5 amps, as well as options to set the charge level to 80%, 90%, or 100%. It includes a display showing the current amps and the charge level in volts.

Using a smart charger can significantly increase the number of charge cycles your battery can handle. If you charge your battery to 100% each time, you can expect about 400 charge cycles before its capacity drops to 85%. This would last about 2 years if you charge twice a week. However, if you charge your battery every day for a long commute, you could deplete those 400 cycles within just over a year.

By charging your battery to only 90%, you can extend it to around 1,000 charge cycles, and charging to 80% can stretch it to nearly 2,000 cycles. This principle applies to all lithium-ion batteries, including those in cell phones. Manufacturers often push for 100% charges to compete on battery life metrics, but the reality is that charging to only 80% or 90% is better for long-term battery health. Electric car manufacturers often use this same technique to ensure a longer warranty period for their vehicles.

Caprouge’s smart chargers come with an adjustable rotary switch, allowing you to select between 80%, 90%, and 100% charge levels. We recommend charging to 90% for everyday use unless you're preparing for a long ride—then you can top it off to 100%. Occasional full charges won’t have a significant impact on battery life.

For more tips on battery care and how to get the most out of your lithium-ion ebike battery, feel free to reach out to us.

Selecting the right chainring for your mid-drive motor is a crucial step in optimizing performance. Whether you're using a CYC, BBSHD, BBS02, or TSDZ2 motor, the choice of chainring can affect your ride in several ways. Here’s a guide to help you navigate the decision-making process.

Mid-drive motors typically come with a chainring between 42 and 46 teeth, designed to work for most riders. However, many motors have an offset chainring design. The offset means the chainring is pushed outward, which helps align the chain better with the rest of the drivetrain. Chainrings smaller than 42 teeth can’t be offset due to space limitations, leading to a misaligned chainline. While this may not cause immediate issues on some bikes, it’s always best to keep the chain as straight as possible for optimal performance.

Some riders prefer smaller chainrings (such as 40T) for lower gearing on mountain bikes. Lekkie, for example, offers a 40T chainring for both the BBSHD and BBS02, which improves chainline alignment but requires a bit more work during installation.

The best chainring size depends on your riding style and goals. Here are some guidelines:

• Lower Gearing for Mountain Biking: If you’re after lower gearing, ideal sizes range from 30T to 38T. These sizes give you more torque for climbing hills or navigating rough terrain.
• Standard Gearing for Versatile Riding: A 42T chainring offers a good balance, giving you a solid range of gears without sacrificing too much power on hills or flat roads.
• Higher Gearing for Speed: If you’re more focused on speed and want to feel like you're getting a workout at higher speeds, consider upgrading to a 48T or 52T chainring. Keep in mind, though, that the motor will still do most of the work at higher speeds, though you’ll still get some exercise.

Upgrading your chainring may be necessary if you want a different gearing range or need to solve specific issues like chain drop. Many mid-drive motor kits come with a stock chainring, but you may find that a lightweight, high-quality chainring made from materials like CNC-machined 7075 T6 aluminum offers both performance and aesthetic benefits. These upgraded chainrings are not only more durable but also feature a narrow/wide tooth profile, which helps keep the chain securely in place, preventing it from coming off—especially on bikes without a front derailleur.

If your bike’s chain frequently drops, upgrading to a narrow/wide chainring can address this problem. Alternatively, chain guides or a rear derailleur with a clutch can also help keep the chain in place.

If your bike is equipped with an internal gear hub (IGH), the same chainring considerations apply. However, the main advantage with IGHs is that, when properly adjusted, your chain won’t slip off, eliminating the risk of chain drop. You might still want to upgrade your chainring for better gearing options, improved weight savings, or simply to improve the bike’s overall look.

In conclusion, selecting the right chainring for your mid-drive motor requires balancing your gearing preferences, chainline considerations, and the type of riding you’ll be doing. Whether you’re upgrading for performance or to address a specific issue, there are plenty of options to suit your needs.

A gear sensor is an essential component when riding a bike equipped with a mid-drive motor, especially for those using a rear derailleur. When cycling with only human power, around 150 watts of effort is typical, and most bike drivetrains are designed to handle this amount. However, when you add the power of a mid-drive motor, producing anywhere from 450 to 750+ watts (equivalent to 3 to 6 additional cyclists), the drivetrain faces a significant amount of stress—particularly when the chain is engaged on multiple gears.

A gear sensor prevents damage to your drivetrain by temporarily cutting power to the motor during gear shifts. This reduces the risk of excessive torque being applied while the chain moves across cogs with only a few teeth engaged.

A gear sensor works by detecting when you shift gears. As the shift cable passes through the sensor, it sends a signal to the motor to momentarily cut power (about 0.8 seconds). This brief pause ensures the shift completes smoothly without overwhelming the drivetrain.

To install a gear sensor, the shift cable is threaded through the sensor. When the sensor detects the movement of the cable, it triggers the motor to stop for roughly 800 milliseconds, allowing for a seamless gear change.

Bafang Mid-Drive Motors from Electrify Bike Co. come with a gear sensor cable directly from the motor controller, making them ready to connect to a sensor. If your motor lacks this cable, you can connect the sensor to a brake sensor cable, though it’s worth noting that brake sensors cut motor power for a longer duration (around 2 seconds), which can be more disruptive than the shorter 0.8-second cut provided by a dedicated gear sensor.

No, hub motors do not require a gear sensor because they don’t use the drivetrain for power transfer. The motor's direct connection to the wheel bypasses any need for a sensor to protect the drivetrain during shifts.

If you're using a rear derailleur with a Bafang mid-drive motor, a gear sensor is highly recommended. Shifting under motor assistance, especially at high power levels, puts significant strain on your drivetrain. For instance, a BBS02 or BBSHD motor can deliver up to 1000 watts or more, and shifting while the motor is engaged can lead to chain damage or skipped gears.

If your motor operates under 400 watts and you tend to shift at lower levels of assist, you may not need a sensor, but it’s still a good idea for smoother shifts and to protect your components.

If you have an internal gear hub (such as a 3-speed or 5-speed Shimano IGH), a gear sensor is generally unnecessary. IGHs are designed to work with gear shifts when you stop pedaling, which naturally pauses the motor. When you resume pedaling, the motor restarts automatically. Some motors may have a slight delay before cutting off when you stop pedaling, but many, including those from Electrify Bike Co., are reprogrammed to cut off immediately to avoid this issue.

While some riders still prefer the instantaneous power cutoff provided by a gear sensor, the IGH system generally eliminates the need for one.

With torque-sensing motors like the CYC or TSDZ2, you typically don't need a gear sensor. These motors adjust their power output based on the force you apply to the pedals. By easing off the pedals slightly when shifting, the motor naturally reduces its power, allowing for smooth gear changes without the risk of damaging the drivetrain.

However, if you prefer to shift while applying a lot of torque, a gear sensor can still be useful. Keep in mind that, since CYC and TSDZ2 motors don’t support gear sensors directly, you'll need to connect the sensor to a brake sensor. Unfortunately, brake sensors cut power for 1.5 to 2 seconds, which may feel like a long pause compared to the 0.8-second cut provided by a dedicated gear sensor, but it is a workable solution.

In summary, whether or not you need a gear sensor depends on your motor type and riding style. For mid-drive motors with a rear derailleur, a gear sensor is generally a good investment to protect your drivetrain and ensure smooth, reliable shifting.

Mid-drive motor kits are designed to mount to the bottom bracket of your bicycle, typically a standard threaded 68/73mm bottom bracket. However, if your bike has a different bottom bracket type, you may still be able to use an adapter to make it compatible. Motor kits like the CYC Photon, X1 Stealth, X1 Pro, BBSHD, BBS02, and TSDZ2 are all designed for threaded bottom brackets.

The bottom bracket is the part of the bike where the bearings for the pedals are located. When installing a mid-drive motor, you remove the existing cranks, spindle, and bottom bracket bearings. The motor then slides into the bottom bracket shell and takes the place of these components, except for the pedals.

Before 2013, most bicycles used English-threaded bottom brackets (BSA/JIT standard), which are still the most common type today. Bikes made before 2013, or those priced under $1500, typically have this standard, so a motor kit will fit without an adapter. If your bike has a square-tapered spindle for the cranks, it’s compatible with threaded bottom brackets, which means you can install a mid-drive motor kit directly.

However, starting around 2012, many higher-end bikes began using press-fit bottom brackets, which don't directly accept threaded motors. Fortunately, adapters are available to convert press-fit bottom brackets to the threaded standard, allowing you to install a mid-drive motor.

Electrify Bike Company offers a range of threaded adapters for various bottom bracket types, including:

• One-piece adapters for 68mm & 73mm BB30, and 68mm & 73mm PF30.
• Two-piece adapters for wider bottom brackets, including BB30 and PF30.
• A two-piece PF41/BB92 adapter that works for a variety of bottom bracket widths using these standards.

Some newer bikes, especially fat tire bikes, have bottom brackets wider than the standard 68/73mm. In these cases, the BBSHD motor is available in wider sizes, such as 100mm and 120mm. For bikes with bottom brackets that don't match these sizes, you can use bottom bracket spacers to make it work. The TSDZ2 and BBS02 motors also have aftermarket extensions available for wider bottom brackets, though these extensions can be difficult to install.

If you have an older Schwinn or cruiser-style bike with a one-piece crank and American-style bottom bracket, we also have adapters available. Contact us for more details or assistance with fitting your motor kit.

When installing an adapter, we recommend using sleeve Loctite (like Loctite 641) for press-fit bottom brackets. This product helps secure the adapter, similar to thread lock but designed for sleeve inserts.

For the two-piece adapters, you can tap them in gently with a soft mallet, ensuring it goes in straight. A bottom bracket press can also be used for this process. For the one-piece adapter, we suggest using a bottom bracket press to avoid binding or difficulty during installation. If you don’t have a bottom bracket press, you can make one using common hardware available at a local store. A tutorial for creating a press can be found on YouTube.

These steps will help ensure a smooth installation and secure fit for your mid-drive motor kit.

When you convert your bike into an e-bike, the large battery powering your motor often has enough juice to also power your lights, eliminating the need for changing or charging separate light batteries. However, setting up a reliable and powerful lighting system isn’t as straightforward as you might expect.

Both TSDZ2 and Bafang mid-drive motors from Electrify Bike Co. allow you to hook up lights directly to the motor and control them from the display on your handlebars. Sounds convenient, right? However, there's a catch. The motor only provides 6V at 0.5A, which is enough to be seen by cars but not sufficient for lighting your path at higher speeds. While this will work for basic visibility, you’ll need something brighter for night riding. We offer lights designed for this solution, which can be found in our store here. You can also check out a complete plug-and-play head and tail light kit for TSDZ2 here.

For many riders, this basic setup doesn't cut it, so we often recommend standard bicycle headlights that run on replaceable or rechargeable batteries. While this is effective, it’s not ideal for an e-bike, as it doesn't use the e-bike’s battery.

After years of testing, we’ve found a solution that addresses both brightness and convenience. Introducing the EBC 1900 Lumen Super-bright Headlight — the perfect solution for e-bike conversions.

Key Features:

• Brightness: 1900 lumens on high beam (brighter than most car halogen headlights) and 600 lumens on low beam with a sharp cutoff to prevent blinding oncoming traffic.
• Power Input: 12-60V input range, compatible with most e-bike batteries, and plugs directly into your battery via XT90 or Anderson Tap connectors.
• Power Consumption: 35W on high beam, 8W on low beam.
• Durability: Made with a sturdy aluminum casing and IPX6 waterproof rating, it’s built to withstand rain and rough conditions.
• Installation: The light includes a mounting bracket that secures to the handlebar stem clamp bolts (fits 90% of modern bicycle handlebar stems), leaving your handlebars clutter-free.

This setup solves the problem of lighting up the road ahead without needing complex modifications or unreliable setups. We’ve tried various methods, like using relays and DC-DC converters, but they were labor-intensive and costly. Now, with this headlight, installation is quick, it’s bright, and the price is great.